Our Delta Circle is the most complete ecotour experience in Louisiana. You’ll visit each coastal subtype in the Mississippi River Delta -everything from the river itself, to barrier islands, and the marshes and swamps in between. We reel through geologic and human history on this sixty mile, six hour route.
We’ve been giving this trip for years now and the journey has become a favorite of the merely curious and highly specialized. This completely immersive experience within the Mississippi River Delta is unscripted and real. Stunning wildlife, vast wetlands merging between ecosystems, and a robust working coast collide on this trip. There just simply isn’t another on-the-water tour in Louisiana that comes close.
Photo Credit: Jakob Rozenwig
We start the trip at the Delta Discovery Center (directions) in Empire, Louisiana, one of the most productive fishing harbors in the United States. At the marina we give a presentation on the history of the delta, starting at the last Ice Age and running through today.
Before setting off we get you acquainted with the boats, what to expect on the trip, and a safety briefing before getting underway.
Empire, the harbor we leave from, is one of the largest commercial fishing harbors in the country. Some of the species landed are shrimp, oysters, crabs, menhaden, and fin fish. The area has large investments in flood protection including an intricate system of gates and pumps which we pass through and explain in plain language.
Empire, Louisiana circa 2013
The changes to the area are apparent. The below aerial photo from the 1930s shows much more land and well defined waterbodies compared to the more recent shot. We explore the reasons for this change as we’re underway. Levee construction, canal digging, and oil & gas extraction all caused land loss in this area.
Empire, Louisiana in the early 1930s
One of our first stops is a mound complex built by indigenous people. These first inhabitants manipulated the landscape to live here by building earthen mounds.
Those people could occupy the delta by pooling their labor to build up above the floodplain one basket of mud and shell at a time. The delta was new when the mounds were being constructed. Freshwater clams were one of the main building materials. After many changes to the delta, nearly all after european contact, the area is dominated by saltier waters with oysters thriving in the area. This shows that the delta in this area is in the retreat phase of the delta cycle.
Many of these mounds have been lost to the elements. The Lemon Tree site in Bay Adams is in the process of being washed away now. While the loss of historic sites is sad, especially those dating to before European contact in the New World, I take solace in the thought that the cycles of the delta are monolithic, the take by nature is equal to the give when modern humans don’t intervene. More on that as we cross the river later.
Anchored shrimp boats near the Mississippi River Delta.
Commercial fishing is the largest driver of the economy in this area between the river and barrier islands. Boat designs have shifted as land loss accelerated. Even the map makers made changes with NOAA taking 33 place names off the nautical charts. The defining features of those waterways having sunk beneath the waves. The causes are numerous and we cover those along the way. We discuss the cultural and physical implications of this land loss as we traverse these “ghost bayous” where the oyster fishermen still mark the old channels through open water as we make our way to the barrier islands.
Bastian Island just after undergoing a restoration project.
Miles of barrier islands have been rebuilt with BP Deepwater Horizon fine money. These islands create vital habitat for birds while reducing storm surge. The barrier island chain is the first line of defense slow down the powerful flow of water headed inland. Visiting the islands is a great way to see this first hand. Evidence of overtopping can be found easily after storms.
Morton, Robert & Miller, Tara & Moore, L.. (2004). National Assessment Of Shoreline Change: Part 1 Historical Shoreline Changes And Associated Coastal Land Loss Along The U.S. Gulf Of Mexico.
Much planning and thought went into the design of the island. The dune was built with sediment dredged from the Mississippi River, through nearly a dozen miles of pipeline. Those dunes have higher elevations near the beach with a back marshes designed to catch blowing sands. The islands are designed to fall back atop themselves and gently guide nature to extend the life of the islands.
The island’s flora and fauna are resilient. Just days after a hurricane life can be found. Ghost crabs dig out of their holes and birds return. Avian species like stilts, pelicans, plovers, and willet abound. While rare, sometimes we will see a pair of American Oyster Catcher. Only 45,000 breeding pairs are in the wild.
New Delta at Bastian Island
As we head down the barrier island chain we’re likely to encounter dolphins. Dozens of pods of bottlenose dolphins call this area of the delta home. They’re always entertaining to see and are super curious, often diverting to our boat to play in the wake. We operate in accordance with the Marine Mammal Protection act so sometimes we must go slowly in their presence.
Bottlenose Dolphin
Leaving the barrier island chain we head inland toward the Mississippi River. Saltwater dominated areas give way to a fresher environment. the vegetation and birdlife changes along with the salinity. This stretch has the greatest diversity of birds on the trip. We often stop to take in the wildlife and natural rhythms of the area.
Next stop is the Venice Marina for lunch and restrooms. Venice, Louisiana has much in common with Venice, Italy. Canals and waterways dominate the landscape. The harbor at Venice is a mixed use facility that has recreational and commercial fishing side by side with oil and gas logistics. The harbor is a transfer spot for river pilots that guide ships up and down the Mississippi River too.
Humanity and nature are juxtaposed often in the delta. Photo credit:
After lunch we head for a cypress swamp before entering the Mississippi River. We share the river with ships bound for destinations across the globe before heading into freshwater wetlands, watery landscapes that are being are growing, contrasting the land loss we passed earlier in the trip.
After passing by an abandoned fort we transverse a coastal restoration project (duck season permitting). You’ll see just how much influence the river has on the surrounding wetlands in this section of the trip.
From there we return upriver to Empire, our starting point. We enter a navigation lock and get dropped down back to sea level before passing under a swing bridge.
Delta management project at Fort St. Phillip in 2019.
We love to get folks into the heart of a vastly ecologically important place. Our trips are always private and off-the-beaten-path away from the crowds. Book now to get into the delta on the most authentic trips around.